This piece of Moroccan clothing has evolved over the centuries and is now available in various forms. It maintains its own characteristics however, namely sfifa and aakad. It is a garment steeped in history and therefore has many variants.
The khrib kaftan
A brocade kaftan made by the Bencherif family in Fez. The word “Khrib” would mean “the one who ruins” because in the past, this brocade was extremely expensive. It is characterized by its yellow color and by numerous embroidered roses.
The Bahja kaftan
A brocade kaftan with floral patterns, also made by the Bencherif family. Luxurious, it was famous in Fez and Marrakech. Brocade was taken over and reused to decorate the interiors of houses.
The Ntaâ kaftan.
Silk velvet kaftan, often black or dark green, embroidered with gold thread (sqalli). This kaftan gets its name from the ntaâ embroidery (tarz), characterized by the appearance of floral and/or peacock motifs.
Nowadays, the dress is worn by the bride on henna day.
The kaftan of Tetouan
Short, loose-fitting kaftan often worn over a vest. It is woven on velvet, brocade, or silk. Embroidered with gold thread, it has a distinctive decorative element on the breastplate called “Khanjar” (dagger).
The kaftan of Rabat
Embroidered garnet velvet kaftan decorated with gold thread stripes. Often worn without a belt, this kaftan is accompanied by the famous Touqida (conical cap).
The kaftan of Salé
Velvet kaftan with long sleeves and dark colors. It is distinguished by its embroidery with gold thread using the Tarz Maâllem technique.
Oujda's kaftan
Kaftan with short sleeves in silk velvet embroidered with soustains, braids and gold thread. It has two ovoid patterns on either side. It was specially worn during wedding ceremonies.
The modern kaftan
It maintains the traditional kaftan codes (sfifa and Aakad) but leaves more room for reinterpretation. Designers revisit it and play with cuts, but also with fabrics (silk, brocade, lace, etc.), embroidery, etc.
Jawhara kaftan
Luxurious kaftan made of silk fabric. It is characterized by its successive bands accompanied by floral motifs. Worn for various ceremonies, it is one of the most popular kaftans in Morocco.
Takchita / Mansouria
The Takchita is composed of at least two pieces unlike the kaftan.
Makhzani kaftan for men
It refers to the kaftan worn by the literati and by the senior officials of Makhzen. It is composed of a kaftan of sheets, often white, and a light, transparent fabric (called Mansouria or Farajiya).
The Makhzani kaftan for women
The princely kaftan, that of women, is worn by the royal family and is decorated with abundant sapphires, braids, and cut from luxurious fabrics: velvet, grand prix brocades, etc.
Kswa l'Kbira (big dress)
Ceremonial kaftan for the Jewish city girls. It is made of green or red velvet and embroidered with gold threads. It consists of a breastplate, a corselet, petticoats, a skirt, a silk belt, sleeves, a scarf and a crown.
